Against the grain of the usually powerfully-knit trend in Margaret River cabernet comes the first and most elegant of them all from Moss Wood. Restrained, refined, delicate and capable of ethereal complexity after a decade or more, Keith Mugford's cabernet is a benchmark for the more sophisticated amongst Australia's red wines.Jeremy OliverMoss Wood, located in the Willyabrup sub-district of Margaret River, can boast one of the choicest and most beautiful vineyard sites in Australia. The Cabernet Sauvignon – first vintage 1973 – is regarded as one of Australia’s great wines offering elegance, restrained power and site specific aromas and flavours. The wine is extremely perfumed and finely structured with cassis-blackcurrant aromas, hints of cedar and violet. Extended oak aging to 24 months (since 1996) and the introduction of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot have made the wine deeper in colour, more aromatic and textured. The oak and fruit are very neatly balanced. The wine develops a touch of earth/demi-glace briar characters on the bouquet and complexity and suppleness on the palate.Andrew Caillard MW