Mount Pleasant is the McWilliams family’s beachhead in the Hunter Valley, and home to a stable of classic, traditional wines made from ancient and historic vineyards. Its efforts with semillon under the Elizabeth and Lovedale labels are the stuff of legend, while the rustic, earthy and typically regional reds from the OP & OH and Rosehill Vineyards can be spectacular. It would be interesting to see what the historic red vineyards might be able to do given a slightly more protective winemaking regime, for I can’t help feeling that they never really see their ultimate potential.Jeremy Oliver, onwine