"I dream that when Edmund Mazure played with his first trials of St Henri Claret at Kanmantoo in the late 1800s, they smelled a bit like this. The same schisty siltstones and quartzites occur below both vineyards. Apart from one small replanting, Kanmantoo is long gone. That was 95 kilometres south, on the other side of the Mount Lofty Ranges. Die-back got it uprooted, nearly a century old, before World War II. If we were still permitted by the EU to use the word “claret”, it would sit neat and tidy on here. But this has the meanest gatorback oak toast - which Mazure would not have got from his big oak tanks - lingering way out the back of the slow deep dance of these dried currants and blueberries. Here, that oak fits. It seems like Ella Fitzgerald has picked up a gene or two from Janis Joplin and bottled it.
It’s easy to think this is ethereal, dancing, light then gone. When you feel the tannin hubs lock way down below somewhere and you realise this is no Peter Pan and Tinkerbelle thing, it changes. This is a mighty, determined, distinctive and slow wine that will hold its own at the front of the Oz Shiraz cohort in 20 years. Maybe 30. It is, for its incredible natural intensity, a most lively and elegant wine. It will not falter. Shivers."