"As the Reserve, this wine has the right to flex extract, concentration and muscle across some oakier ribs. And yet, Balnaves' finely hewn grape tannins-all pulpy and chewy-along with a proclivity toward refinement over excess, keeps it all in check. Blackcurrant stains the cheeks. A potpourri of herb, licorice straps and vanilla to coffee bean soar along the structural beams. This is a superlative wine of immense oomph, melded with grace." - Ned Goodwin